Danny and I had climbed Rainier via
the Emmons two weeks earlier and we were eager to exploit the
fantastic conditions to go for some of the less-known routes up
the mountain. The Fuhrer Finger is regarded as the quickest way up
the mountain, basically because it shoots straight up to the
summit.
The Fuhrer Finger route to the summit of Mt Rainier
The route leads up a steep couloir, prime avalanche terrain, so
good frozen snow is a must on this route. The weather report was
really good for our days off, calling for a few blue bird days
with low freezing levels during the night - perfect! We got a
permit to stay on the Wilson Glacier for the night at the Paradise
Ranger station and left around noon. The first challenge was to
cross the heavily-crevassed lower Nisqually Glacier.
Crevasse on the lower Nisqually Glacier
The crevasses left and right of the boot track looked nasty and
bottomless. From the Nisqually we climbed up the gully leading to
the Wilson Glacier.
Hauling up the Wilson Glacier, Nisqually and Muir Snowfield in the
background
Taking a rest on the lower Wilson Glacier
A few more hours hauling over the glacier in the hot weather
brought us to a fantastic camp site on the ridge seperating the
Wilson Glacier from the Van Trump Glaciers. Running water was
close by and we didnt even have to melt any snow.
Camp on the Wilson Glacier with views over to the Muir Snowfield
Mt Adams throning on the horizon
The route up the Fuhrer couloir was well visible from our
campsite and we were both looking forward to some cool steep
climbing.
On the left is the Wilson Headwall (note the rockfall debris
below) and on the right the Fuhrer Finger colouir
We hit our sleeping bags early and were woken up several times
by sounds of massive rockfalls coming down the Wilson Headwall.
Some lasted almost 10 minutes! I was scared about climbing the
couloir in a few hours but luckily fell asleep and got 3 hours of
sleep. We rose around midnight, got ready for the climb and left
the tent where it was. The plan was to climb the Kautz Glacier
route down and pick up the tent on the way down from the Turtle
snow field. We crossed the Wilson Glacier quickly not wanting to
get hit by the occasional rock falls coming down from the head
wall. The climb up the coulouir was steep but also rapid. At one
stage one of my legs pushed through the snow and dangled into a
small crevasse. Scarry! It was pretty dark since the moon wasnt
out, but you could still see the impressive silhouette of Mount St
Helens to the South, which was made possible by the metropolitan
lights of the Portland area which were illuminating the volcano
from behind.
Sunrise on the upper Nisqually, view of Mt St Helens in the
distance
Upper Nisqually Bergschrund
Rainier can really offer some of the best sunrises anywhere if
the weather is clear. This time once again! The climb on the upper
Nisqually seemed endless but passed by some interesting serac
formations.
Danny reachin' the summit crater
Just before reaching the summit, we had to deal with some
nasty, ankle-twisting climbing over the deepest suncups I had
seen.
Crazy sun cups close to the crater rim
The summit views were nice to the east but hazy and cloudy over
to the Pacific in the West. Nevertheless very impressive!
Glacier Peak seen from Mount Rainier
Steam was coming out of the gap between the barren crater rim
and the ice cap. One day I would really like to explore the famous
firn caves, hollowed out by the volcanic steams on the summit of
Rainier.
Steam escaping the famous firn caves in the crater
The climb down the Kautz Glacier was mellow at the top and
occasionally passed through some minor serac fields.
Descending the upper Nisqually/Kautz Glaciers
Descending the upper Nisqually/Kautz Glaciers
As we neared the apex of Wapowetey Cleaver, the climb became
really steep and icy. The glacier was heavily sun cupped so the
climbing of the 50-60 degrees steeps never really became too
dangerous.
Shortly before the first steep pitch
Descending the steep crux of the Kautz Glacier route
After the steep pitches we climbed up the ice gully below the
Kautz ice cliff. There was debris of ice fall everywhere and we
were glad to exit the frightening gully section.
The gully leading up below the massive Kautz ice cliff
We passed Camp Hazard, glissaded down the Turtle snow field,
packed the tent and began the long climb down the Wilson Glacier.
Crossing the lower Nisqually was sketchy once more, since we were
too lazy to rope up again. Kind of stupid considering we had to
jump a number of crevasses and cross some fragile looking snow
bridges. After another hour we finally reached the lodge. The
Fuhrer Finger / Kautz Glacier combo turned out to be a really cool
climb with varying terrain and unbelievable views.
